Cosmetic emulsifiers: what are the vegetable ones?

Cosmetic emulsifiers allow the homogenization of different phases in formulations and are key elements in the sector, as they allow a large group of active ingredients, such as fat-soluble extracts and vitamins, to be transported to the skin.

As we have seen in previous blog articles, the cosmetic market is looking for an increasingly vegetable, innovative approach and has been seeing a transition from synthetic ingredients to natural ingredients for several years now.

In this article we talk about the role of emulsifiers in cosmetics, what are the types of vegetable emulsifiers on the market and the causes of the physical instability of emulsions.

Emulsifiers in cosmetics: what they are and what their role is

When we talk about emulsifiers (natural or synthetic), we mean surfactant substances that manage to unite an aqueous and an oily phase (creating and stabilizing an emulsion), which otherwise would not be amalgamable with each other.

The mixture of fats and the water-based substances that make up the emulsion, in fact, by their nature, when mixed, remain together for a very short time, after the period of application of the force that has united them.

This is where emulsifiers come into play, to allow the ingredients to remain bound for long periods, stabilizing the formulation.

Now let's see what are the main types of vegetable emulsifiers in cosmetics…

What are the types of natural emulsifiers for cosmetics

Here are some natural emulsifiers, for creams and personal care products, which are normally found on the market.

At Maycos we use plant-based emulsifiers and texture factors every day, even from our own production, to create innovative emulsifying bases, ready to be used in formulations with a high naturalness index:

• Lauryl glucoside (Lauryl glucoside): is obtained from the fatty alcohols of coconut oil and corn sugar, and is used in body wash, shampoo, facial cleansers, delicate liquid soaps and intimate products. It allows to increase the viscosity of the products and possesses emulsifying / foaming properties while remaining gentle on the skin.

• Sucrose Stearate: is an ester of stearic acid and sucrose obtained from sugar. It has an emollient, as well as emulsifying action and is well tolerated by the skin.

• Lecithin: mainly extracted from soybeans or wheat, it is used for its moisturizing, nourishing, emollient and emulsifying properties. It is very delicate on the skin, helps restructure the hair and is also ideal for strengthening nails.

• Polyglycerol Esters: are used in cosmetics to emulsify, improve viscosity and stabilize formulations. They are incorporated into styling gels, skin treatment gels, skin cleansers, baby creams, long-acting hand creams, sunscreen moisturizers, and sunscreen sticks.

• Cetearyl glucoside: it is a non-ionic emulsifier that derives from glucose and coconut oil. This ingredient is mainly used in delicate and moisturizing cosmetics, sprays, foams and sunscreens.

It has excellent emollient properties making the skin softer and smoother.

• Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate: belongs to the class of acyl glutamates, and acts as a conditioner for the scalp and hair. On the latter, it prevents the static effect leaving them soft and easy to comb. It is also particularly indicated in sunscreen formulations, as it improves water resistance.
  

• Glyceryl Mono Stearate: It is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is used in the formulation of creams, lotions, bronzers, makeup, conditioners and cleansing products.

It has emulsifying, emollient, stabilizing and surfactant properties.

Now let's see what we mean when we talk about the physical stability and instability of emulsions.

Stability and physical instability of emulsions

Emulsions represent one of the main cosmetic forms and are categorized as colloidal dispersions. Creams and lotions are the best known and most used cosmetic products based on emulsions.

These are two-phase systems, in which it is possible to distinguish between an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous solution (O/W emulsion) and an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily one (W/O emulsion).

The stability of the emulsions is the fundamental physical characteristic in order to guarantee:

• the effectiveness of the ingredients;

• the maintenance of the organoleptic properties;

• preservation of the finished product.

Among the reasons for the instability of a cosmetic emulsion we find:

• incorrect ratio between the oily phase and the aqueous phase;

• wrong choice of the type of emulsifier and its quantity;

• incompatibility between components;

• packaging defects;

• excessive temperatures during the heating / cooling phases.

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